Nicholas Alexander

Grow Your Own Christmas Tree This Fall and enjoy it year round. There are several advantages of growing your own Christmas tree: A conifer is an excellent feature plant that greatly enhances your property. Choose a smaller specimen or slower growing variety to start with so that you won’t need to climb up a ladder too soon when it comes to decorating your tree. Planting trees of any kind will create some welcomed shade for hot summer days and help reduce the carbon footprint. Planting your Christmas tree takes only little time and effort to complete.
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The 5 Most Popular Choices Of Christmas Trees – Spruce and fir trees grow in conical shapes along with dark-green leaves, which make them perfect choices for those looking for a traditional Christmas tree to plant. The annual growth rates between the species however varies. While most spruce trees grow an average of 6 to 11 inches per year, fir trees can grow between 13 and 24 inches in height. Evergreens should receive abundant moisture in fall before freeze up as they lose water from their foliage in winter and are unable to take up replacement moisture from the frozen soil.

Norway Spruce (Picea abies) – The Norway Spruce is probably most recognisable as the traditional Christmas tree with its beautiful pyramidal shape and weeping branches, bright green coloured, four-sided smooth leaves and its pleasant fragrance. Matured, this tree can reach heights up to 60 feet high.

Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) – Described and heralded by botanists and tree experts as “one of the most striking and truly graceful objects in nature” and as “one of the noblest forest trees.” The Douglas Fir has a beautiful, iconic, pyramid shape with dark green leaves, grows between 13 and 24 inches in height annually and it emits a powerful fragrance that is one of the richest among Christmas trees. If you want to make a strong statement in your yard, this tree is you best bet.

Blue Spruce (Picea pungens) – The Blue Spruce with its powerful spicy scent features silver-blue coloured branches that grow in a dense conical manner with needles which tend to curve upward at the end. Regarded by many as the Blue Spruce that is perfect for Christmas trees. The branches of this tree are strong and they are widely used for Christmas decorations. This conifer grows 12 to 24 inches annually and can reach a height up to 75 feet at maturity.

Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea) – Balsam firs look very similar to spruce trees. The difference is that their cones stand straight up while spruce cones dangle. The Balsam Fir is one of the most popular Chritmas trees due to its dark green colour, heavy density foliage and short soft needles. It matures to a height of 70 feet and can live at elevations up to 6,000 feet above sea level. It is hardy to temperatures reaching -40 degrees Celsius.

Black Hills Spruce (Picea glauca) – The Black Hills Spruce is a small to medium height tree of up to 60 feet in height. Originally from the Black Hills of South Dakota, this conifer is a good addition to residential landscapes and it makes not only for an great windbreak because of its with a broad, pyramidal form, dense habit and slower growth rate, but also for an ideal Christmas tree.

At Nicholas Alexander – Vernon’s New Garden Centre of Choice, you can find a great selection of suitable conifers for your outdoor Christmas tree planting project. Visit us today and our friendly staff will be happy to serve you!

6 Exotic Vegetables To Grow From Seed In Fall – Just when your summer garden runs out of the typical crops of tomatoes, squash, cucumbers and corn, you may want to start thinking about growing fall vegetables from seed. You can still get some great tasting fresh food on the table before winter. Take a walk on the wild side and try some exotic vegetable varieties that you won’t typically find at the produce section in your grocery store. Take a bite and fall in love!

Natalino – Romanesco broccoli, with its chartreuse coloured, pointed buds is best planted to mature in September to October. Cut promptly while it is still pale-green. Natalino makes a wonderful addition to a vegetable dip tray with its curious look, fantastic flavour and great source of vitamins A and D, dietary fiber, and potassium. Matures in 90 days.

Carrot ‘Dragon’ – With their reddish-purple skins and yellow-orange interiors, ‘Dragon’ carrots are unusual and beautiful. The flesh is sweet and mildly spicy, rich in nutrients and red carotenoid pigments that have been linked to many health benefits. Plant Dragons carrots in deeply dug, loose soil and be sure to keep the surface of the soil damp during germination. Matures in 60-90 days.

Also Read About: Grow Your Own Garlic This Fall

Beira Tronchuda – A hybrid Portuguese kale, featuring five-pound heads, which are ready in 50 to 60 days. Paddle-shaped, blue-green leaves grow up to 24” wide. Sweeter and more tender than regular cabbage, it may be harvested as a whole plant or leaf-harvested to promote center re-growth with paler, milder, frilly leaves. Beira Tronchuda kale is winter hardy, with a taste that is improved by frost. Matures in 55 days.

Kohlrabi – Also known as German “turnip cabbage”, is a small, green or purple vegetable that can be eaten raw or cooked and tastes like broccoli stems. Kohlrabi is also a good source of vitamin B6, a water-soluble vitamin that plays an important role in the metabolism of carbs, fats, and especially protein. Purple varieties are slower to mature, but hardier. For a fall harvest, sow seeds in late summer. Matures in 55-69 days.

Also Read About: Fall Planting Bulbs For Spring Blooms

Esmee Arugula – A cool-season member of the mustard family with an appealing green rounded oak leaf. The leaves grow upright, but have a very three-dimensional nature, so they add loft to salad mixes. Grown as baby leaf greens, Esmee is ready for harvest in just 21 days from sowing. In cool weather, it is nutty and flavourful, with very little spiciness. It is a good source of nutrients, including vitamin K, vitamin A, folate and antioxidants. Matures in 21-40 days.

Winter Density – A butter head/romaine cross lettuce that is compact and has a smooth, sweet and nutty flavour. It is thick-leaved with a spongy texture, ideal for salads and creative entrées. These deliciously edible leaves are green in hue, deeply savoyed with a slightly jagged edge. This plant is frost tolerant and ideal for late fall planting. Matures in 65 days.

At Nicholas Alexander Home and Garden Centre, we carry numerous varieties of non-genetically modified, untreated organic seeds to grow your vegetables in fall. Come and check out our comprehensive collection today!

Fall Cover Crops For Vegetable Gardens are the best organic choice of rebuilding soil conditions to an ideal state to successfully grow next year’s vegetable garden. Cover crops offer a wide variety of advantages for the garden. They are mostly annual plants that are grown to add organic matter and nutrients to the soil and to protect it from wind and water erosion in the fall, winter and spring. Most cover crops grow throughout the winter and then accelerate their growth in the spring. Then gardeners till the crop into the soil as a “green manure” before the crop goes to seed or they simply tarp up the patch and let it cook by the sun. In three or four weeks, the cover crop has composted and begun releasing its nutrients into the soil.

What Plants To Use For Cover Crops – The most common cover crop plants are legumes such as alfalfa, peas, beans and clovers. These are a favourite because they have the ability to draw nitrogen from the air. When they are tilled into the soil, the nitrogen is released and is available for the next vegetable crop planted there. Grasses are another common and popular choice for garden cover crops. These add organic matter to the soil and are easily removed or tilled in as their roots grow relatively shallow. Seed mixtures are also available with both grasses and legumes.

When to Sow & Terminate Cover Crops – In the fall, immediately after all vegetables have been harvested and weeds and plant debris has been removed, cover crop seeds should be sown allowing at least four weeks of growth before cold weather. Cover crops should then be watered as needed. In the spring, cover crops must be turned under at least three weeks before planting new vegetables to allow organic matter to decompose. Flowering cover crops should not be allowed to go to seed and should be terminated when about one-third of the plants are in flower. This is the point where plants provide the greatest amount of biomass and nutrients to the soil.

Red Clover (Trifolium pratense) – Hardy to zone 5 Winter-hardy, short-lived and a superb nitrogen fixer – this is considered one of the best green manures. Sow it in early spring through September. Attractive with its traditional cloverleaf and honey-scented flowers, it reaches a mature height of only 30 cm (12 in.), with a taproot three times as long. A food source for bees and shelter for beneficial ground beetles. This clover is a useful cover crop in summer or winter.

Fava Bean (Vicia faba) – Hardy to zone 7 or 8, this is an excellent nitrogen fixer with an extraordinarily long taproot useful for breaking up clay or compacted soils. When tilled in, the leaves decompose rapidly; However, the fibrous stem will loosen heavy soils. It may also be cut and composted, leaving the nitrogen-fixing roots in the soil. Plant in early fall or early spring, as it thrives in cooler temperatures. Pull the plants or till them in before they form pods.

Fall Rye (Secale cereale) – Hardy to zone 3. This cover crop suppresses weeds and prevents erosion and soil compaction. It grows well from fall through spring. It is quite fibrous and should be tilled in three weeks before planting. It is an excellent soil amender and supplier of nutrients, particularly phosphorus.

Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) – Hardy to zone 5, Alfalfa fixes nitrogen and is an excellent weed suppressor. Its roots can go down 1.2 m (4 ft.) to reach nutrients deep in the earth and break up the subsoil. It can be grown year-round. Alfalfa will die back in severely cold winters but should resprout in spring. It should be double-tilled to prevent resprouting. Alfalfa does not like water-logged or acidic soil.

Hairy Vetch (Vicia villosa) – Hardy to zone 4. This is an excellent weed suppressor and supplier of nitrogen. Winter-hardy and tolerant of poor soil conditions, this can grow where no other cover crop can survive. Sow in fall or spring and till or dig in at the first sight of blooms.

Austrian Winter Pea (Pisum arvense) – Hardy to zone 6. This pea is an excellent nitrogen fixer and can be companion-planted with fall rye. Sow in fall or early spring. The wiry stems can be tilled in, as they compost quickly. The crop provides a home for many beneficial insects. Till, cut or compost, when flowers appear.

How To Plant Garlic In The Fall and use it in your home cooking to flavour up your favourite dishes. Besides the distinctive taste, adding garlic to your meals helps to improve your health at the same time. The antioxidants present in garlic serve many functions in the body, such as protecting your cells from damage, preventing Alzheimer’s disease, rheumatic arthritis, and other chronic diseases.

Types Of Garlic – There are two categories of garlic you can choose from for your garden: softneck and hardneck. Softneck garlic produces more cloves, but they are smaller in size than its counterpart. Hardneck varieties are larger, stronger in flavour and produce a scape (a flowering stalk). It is important to harvest the scapes in early summer, to direct energy into further growing the garlic bulb. Softneck garlic does not grow scapes. Softneck varieties grow best in areas with milder winters, while hardneck types performs better in harsher winter conditions.

How To Plant Garlic In The Fall is rewarding and easy! With minimal effort, you can grow a bounty of tasty garlic that can be used for months. Homegrown garlic is a perfect addition to your favourite recipes. Garlic comes in a wide variety of sizes and flavours. Types of garlic range from ‘Regular White’ to the purple-striped spicy ‘Russian Red’. Looking for something milder? Try the large mild-flavoured ‘Elephant’ variety or ‘Chesnok Red’, a full flavoured garlic with a mellow aftertaste..

1. When To Plant Garlic – Plant your garlic in mid-September to October, at least 4 weeks before the ground freezes. Many varieties can be planted in early spring; however, best results are gained when planted in fall. Garlic is grown by planting its seeds, called cloves. Leave the garlic bulbs whole with the papery covering intact until just before planting. This protects the cloves, keeping them in prime condition.

2. How To Plant – Garlic performs best in well-draining sandy loam soils rich with organic matter. Avoid soggy soils as garlic tends to rot in overly wet conditions. Amend the soil with composted manure before planting. Plant in an area where your garlic will have enough room to produce good roots. Break each clove cleanly away from the bulb. Cloves should be firm and plump. Discard any that show signs of damage, mold or disease. For best success, only use the largest cloves. Plant them root side down, 3” deep and 6” apart. From spring to early summer when garlic sprouts push through the soil, watering is needed on a regular basis.

3. When To Harvest – Once the leaves have turned brown, the garlic is now mature and ready to harvest. Carefully dig the bulbs from the ground and gently brush off the soil from around the roots. Do not wash your bulbs in water. Dry and cure your bulbs out of direct sunlight. With the stalks and leaves still attached, tie them together or store on drying racks for two weeks in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated location.

13 Great Garlic Varieties Available At Nicholas Alexander

Regular (Softneck) ◦ Type: Standard ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 9-24 ◦ Clove Size: Small, Medium ◦ Flavour: Mild to Medium ◦ Comments: Easy to grow, productive and adaptable to varying climates and soils. Great for braiding.

Music (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Porcelain ◦ Harvest: Mid-Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 4-7 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong ◦ Comments: Cold hardy, very hot when eaten raw. Great for roasting.

Chesnok (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 8-10 ◦ Clove Size: Medium ◦ Flavour: Sweet, Mellow ◦ Comments: Full garlic flavour with a mellow aftertaste. Award winning.

Bogatyr (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 5-7 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong, Fiery ◦ Comments: Strong, long-lasting heat. One of the hottest Hardneck varieties.

German Red (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Rocambole ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Winter ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 5-7 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong ◦ Comments: Great full-bodied and long lasting flavour. Stores very well.

Duganski (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Mid-Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 7-10 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong, Fiery ◦ Comments: Fiery flavour that mellows out to a rich garlic aftertaste.

Legacy (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Rocambole ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Winter ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 7-12 ◦ Clove Size: Medium ◦ Flavour: Medium, Strong ◦ Comments: Great flavour. Easy to peel. Cold hardy.

Mexican Purple (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Late Winter / Early Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 8-16 ◦ Clove Size: Small, Medium ◦ Flavour: Rich, Medium ◦ Comments: Milder flavour when baked. Colourful.

Russian Red (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Early / Mid-Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Winter ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 6-8 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong ◦ Comments: Cold hardy. Grows great in northern locations.

Elephant Garlic ◦ Type: Bulbing Leek ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: One Year ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 4-6 ◦ Clove Size: Very Large, Enormous ◦ Flavour: Mild, Sweet ◦ Comments: Closely related to the leek. Cold hardy. Plant 4-6 inches deep.

Metechi (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 5-7 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong ◦ Comments: Cold hardy, vigorous grower and long lasting in storage.

Siberian (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 5-9 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong, Hot Spicy ◦ Comments: Mild flavour when stored. Great for roasting and cooking.

Spanish Roja (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Rocambole ◦ Harvest: Mid-Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Winter ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 8-9 ◦ Clove Size: Medium ◦ Flavour: Rich, Spicy ◦ Rich complex flavour, long-lasting taste. Excellent for growing in cold climates.

Pro-Mix HP Mycorrhizae is – The Best Planting Soil Mix For Okanagan Gardeners because of its a high porosity (HP) peat-based growing medium containing, beneficial ingredients. “Myco” – “rhiza” literally means “fungus” – “root” and describes the mutually beneficial relationship between the plant and root fungus (mycorrhizae is the plural form of mycorrhiza). These specialized fungi colonize plant roots and extend far into the soil. Mycorrhizal fungal filaments in the soil are truly extensions of root systems and are more effective in nutrient and water absorption than the roots themselves.

PRO-MIX HP MYCORRHIZAE HP – High Porosity
With its lightweight granular content (perlite) this soil mix provides a great growing environment with a significant drainage capacity, increased air porosity and lower water retention. The added benefit of fibrous peat moss and coarse perlite makes this formulation ideal for gardeners who require a superior-quality product adapted to their needs for watering flexibility.

Undisturbed soils are full of beneficial soil organisms including mycorrhizal fungi. Many common practices can degrade this potential of soil. Tillage, removal of topsoil, erosion, site preparation, compaction, fumigation and invasion of weeds are some of the activities that can reduce or eliminate these beneficial soil fungi. Scientific studies indicate mycorrhizal populations are slow to recolonize naturally, therefore, reintroducing mycorrhizal fungi in areas where they have been lost or in artificial growing media can dramatically improve plant performance with less water, fertilizer and at a reduced cost.

The spore of mycorrhizal fungi germinate in the soil and make their way to the nearest roots. The roots are then colonized by the fungi, and mycorrhizae are established. The fungi penetrate the root, and create an internal network of fungal structure inside the root cells, where the plant and mycorrhizae exchange sugars and nutrients. Finally, the structure of fungi continue to develop outside the roots forming an extended network of fine filaments which cover up to 700 times more soil area than the plants own roots. This secondary root system draws in extra beneficial nutrients and water, supporting a plant for its entire lifetime.

Also Read About: Best House Plants For Vernon BC

Nicholas Alexander Home and Garden, Vernon’s NEW Garden Centre of Choice carries a broad range of ingeniously engineered Pro-Mix products from soil mixes, to garden fertilizers and more. Check ’em out today and find your choice of The Best Planting Soil Mix For Okanagan Gardeners !

This is the time when many plants say “Thank you for having put me in your garden” or “Please, put me in now!”. Gardening is a positive experience. Newcomers discover what works in their flower beds or what doesn’t and over time they learn to relax and enjoy the process of growing. It takes a growing season or sometimes a bit more for plants to come to their full potential and glory. When summer arrives, all gardeners get to enjoy the pay-off for dirty hands and dirty jeans.

Bee Balm (Monarda), also called wild bergamot is beloved in flower beds for its beautiful blooms and fragrant foliage.

Blooming summer plants, whether perennials or annuals, are essential for any garden as they attract butterflies, hummingbirds, bees and other pollinating insects. Flowers fill gardens with fragrant scents and colours.

Night-Scented Stock (Matthiola longipetala) is an old-fashioned annual that reaches its peak fragrance at twilight.

Some of the best plants that bloom from summer to fall are: Bee balm (Monarda), Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), Dahlia, Coneflower (Echinacea), Petunias, Lavender, Hydrangeas, Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata), Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum), Night-Scented Stock (Matthiola longipetala).

With time spent in a garden, anyone can choose from a variety of summer plants: Tall flowering plants, small flowering shrubs, or gorgeous blooming ground cover plants.

Victorian Secret Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum superbum) is a prolific bloomer and good choice for sunny borders.

Perennial flowers come back every year, as they survive through the winter. Annual plants grow flowers for one growing season and don’t come back every year. However if annuals drop seeds that germinate in the spring they will flower in the next growing season.

▲ Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ (Montbretia) An extremely showy South African native that is a magnet for hummingbirds and butterflies.

▲ Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a favorite flower that blooms heavily for many weeks in late summer.

▲ Hidcote Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) A great fragrant plant for a dwarf hedge, edging, or for massing.

Summer drought and smoky skies aside, a bit of dirt and water, and all is blooming.

To successfully plant shrubs and trees during the hot summer months, the correct method needs to be applied. You only need a shovel, bone meal, mulch and water.

First of all select a good site to plant your shrub or tree. Dig a hole with sloped sides about 3x the diameter of the plant pot. This encourages root growth up and outwards towards higher oxygen levels. In clay soils, roughen up the sides of the hole. Roots cannot penetrate a ‘glazed’ side caused by a shovel. Roughen up the sides will allow roots to push through once they make it there.

Fill the hole with water and let it drain before planting. Before anything else, check the plant pot to see if any roots are visibly sticking out from the bottom drain holes. Take the plant out of its container and inspect the root ball. If roots have formed into a dense, tangled mass you need to make vertical cuts down the sides of the root ball.

Put the plant into the hole after the initial water application has drained.

Backfill halfway with native soil mixed with a handful of bone meal and up to 25% soil amendment (compost, manure, etc.) and water.

Repeat backfill and watering for a second half gradually tapering the soil from from the top of the root ball to ground level.

Mulching cannot be overstated. Mulch keeps roots cooler during summer and insulates them during winter. It reduces the loss of moisture during the heat of the day and it will eventually break down providing the plant with beneficial nutrients. DO NOT, however, mulch around the trunk of plants. This can cause rotting and diseases. It is best to mulch the entire planting area starting 3-4 inches away from the trunk. The use of Transplanter 5-15-5 after planting helps minimize post-planting stress.

When planting balled and burlapped plants, be sure to remove all twine / wire and peel back the first 1/3 of burlap from the top. The rest can be left on as it will decompose.Lastly, deep waterings are far more beneficial and efficient as opposed to a quick spray on the surface.