Nicholas Alexander

The Benefits of Composting – Organic materials buried in landfill sites contribute to about 38 per cent of Canada’s total greenhouse gasses. Soil erosion can create new sources of pollution when nutrients, sediments and chemicals are carried into waterways. Recycling and composting of organic materials makes a positive environmental difference by reducing pollution and the need for chemical fertilizers.

The Benefits of Composting
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What is Compost ?
Gardeners have used compost for centuries to improve their soil and help plant growth. Incorporating compost into light, sandy soil helps it hold both moisture and nutrients while adding it to heavy soil improves drainage. Compost is a natural fertilizer and soil conditioner made from organic materials such as kitchen scraps and garden waste. When put into a pile, these materials naturally decompose, turning into a rich, soil-like material called compost or humus. Composting binds soil particles together, improves water retention and provides essential organic matter for the soil, which is of fundamental importance to its heaths, vitality and fertility.

Gardening Questions ? Visit our Knowledge Base

Composting Basics
The single most important ingredient for healthy and productive soil is compost. All composting requires three basic ingredients. Browns (Carbon) – materials such as dead leaves, branches, twigs, cardboard and paper provide carbon to your compost. Greens (Nitrogen) – grass clippings, vegetable waste, fruit scraps, and coffee grounds provide nitrogen. Water – the right amount of moisture combined with greens and browns is important for compost development.
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	What Not To Compost And Why

	*Black walnut* tree leaves or twigs release substances that might be harmful to plants. *Coal* or *charcoal ash* might contain substances harmful to plants. Dairy products (e.g., butter, milk, sour cream, yogurt) and eggs create odour problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies. *Diseased* or insect-ridden plants might survive and be transferred back to other plants. *Fats, grease, lard, or oils* create odour problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies. Meat or fish bones and scraps create odour problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies. *Pet wastes* (e.g., dog or cat feces, soiled cat litter) might contain parasites, bacteria, germs, pathogens, and viruses harmful to humans. *Yard trimmings treated* with *chemical pesticides* might kill beneficial composting organisms.

How To Create Compost

Piling 4 to 8 inch thick layers of green and brown materials in a composting structure is a good way to start. Adding an additional thin layer of soil on top of each green and brown layer plus a bit of water optimizes the decomposition process.

Regular turning of the material every 4 to 7 days with a shovel or pitch fork helps distribute air and moisture evenly and ensures efficient composting. As the compost starts to mature, it may need to be turned less often.

While most of the moisture in a compost pile should come from rain, it may need to be watered occasionally to help keep it moist. When the pile becomes soggy or it starts to emit odour it needs turning or more brown materials added to remove excess moisture.

Uses For Compost
The Benefits of Composting and its applications are endless. Compost can be used around a home to add nutrients to lawns, trees, shrubs, vegetable garden, potted plants and more.

Composting

1. Amending Soil – Compost can be used to improve soils everywhere in a garden and it should be done before planting, in spring or early summer. The soil should be dug in or tilled to a depth of 2 to 4 inches.

2. Compost Tea – Compost tea can be used as liquid fertilizer on your garden plants. Making this ‘tea’ is simple as it only requires a shovel of compost placed in a burlap sack and steeped for 2 to 5 days in water.

3. Lawn Top Dressing – Lawn top dressing is quite literally a top layer of compost added to grass. Once added to the top of the lawn, it will work its way into the soil as the grass begins to grow. Top dressing should be added during the spring or at the end of the growing season to create healthier soil that will hold water better and keep grass vibrant green.

4. Mulch – Compost is an ideal mulch alternative that can hold moisture and add nutrients when spread around trees, shrubs, and plants. Added once or twice annually, the compost will be regularly boosting the soil’s fertility.
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Composting Structures
The first step to composting is determining where to place a compost heap or bin. An outdoor location with partial shade and removed from animals, including pets and wildlife is ideal. To save space, keep a yard looking neat and speed up composting time, compost should be contained in some type of structure.

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Unenclosed compost piles usually spread out and become unsightly. Enclosed structures encourage faster composting as the outer portion of the pile acts as an insulator that creates higher temperatures near the center. The style of structure depends on how much space is available.

There are many types of manufactured structures available through garden centers or they can be ordered online and delivered to your door. Do-it-yourself structures can be made from cement blocks, brick, wood, woven wire fencing, metal posts or other materials. Wood should be painted to resit rot but not pressure treated with a harmful wood preservative..

It is up to you to decide which composting method fits best your lifestyle. Fortunately, composting is incredibly easy, environmentally friendly and it is a treat for your garden. For more information about the The Benefits of Composting, ask the friendly and knowledgeable staff at Nicholas Alexander – Vernon’s New Home and Garden Center of Choice !

Common Garden Pests And How To Get Rid Of Them – Pests are a common occurrence in a garden. The problem with many pests is that they are present all year. In the winter, many of them sleep cozily, waiting for the cool rains and sun to wake them up. Knowing which ones you are dealing with is key for how they can be controlled. As bylaws limit the availability of pest control poisons on the market, following do-it-yourself suggestions are worth considering.

Aphids – Typically found on plant stems and on the undersides of leaves during wet and cool springs but also in dry summers, are tiny pear-shaped insects. Aphids use their piercing mouth parts to suck the sap from your plants leaving a sticky mess which in turn attracts other problems like sooty mold or ants. Aphids occur in a variety of colours from brown, black to gray and green. The insects often spread rapidly over plants forming large colonies. Damaged plant leaves shrivel and curl.

Controlling Aphids – A sharp spray of water can blast them off the plant, the of use sticky-paper bug traps also works. Another option is to use insecticidal soap sprays that you can make yourself or purchase. Just make sure to read product labels and instructions. Ladybugs released on the plant are also a good option as they will start to reduce the aphid population over time.

Slugs & Snails – There are many ways to control slugs and snails. During the day, slugs and snails hide underneath objects, at twilight and at night they feed on your plants. Slugs and snails exist in a variety of shapes, colours and sizes and all are sticky and slimy.

Controlling Slugs & Snails – Control has to be to practiced regularly. Wear gloves to remove them from your garden. Going out with a flashlight in the dark will maximize your picking harvest. Less physical options are traps. Deep containers filled with beer are very effective as thirsty slugs and snails fall in and drown. Spraying slugs with a 50-50 Ammonia / water solution or sprinkling them with salt also works well. Slugs and snails have soft underbellies and they dislike crossing anything sharp. Sprinkle coffee grounds, sharp sand or use a product known as Diatomaceous Earth.

Earwigs – Earwigs do not crawl into people’s ears as old folks tales suggest. They do however have two long pincers protruding at the end of their body, which is where they get their nickname, the “pincher bug”. Earwigs are long, black or brown coloured and they chew holes into leaves causing them to brown and shrivel. Earwig season typically takes place in late spring and early summer. In the colder, winter months, earwigs will stay underground until the ground begins to warm.

Controlling Earwigs – Earwigs are drawn to damp and wet, dark places. Place damp, rolled up newspapers on the ground and dispose of these traps in the morning. Traps made from vegetable-oil filled tin cans placed at ground level are another option. Diatomaceous earth and insecticidal soaps are also effective controls. Wildlife such as toads, frogs and birds will also eat earwigs and control their population.

Caterpillars & Cutworms – Caterpillars are hairy, multi-legged crawling bugs about 1-2 inches, typically found on stems and under leaves. Cutworms are notorious for chewing on leaves and stems of new seedlings at soil level. They feed on foliage leaving large and irregular holes. The gray, green or cream coloured cutworms are often found under leaf debris or in the soil. When disturbed they often curl into a “C” shape.

Controlling Caterpillars and Cutworms – The least environmentally invasive method of controlling caterpillars and cutworms is to cultivate your soil in the fall. This kills overwintering eggs. As both pests are larger, they can also be removed by hand. An old-time method of protecting new transplants with a newspaper or cardboard collar still works well today. If available, you can also spray with products that contain BT or Bacillus thuringiensis. Just make sure to read product labels and instructions. Cutworms and caterpillars are also preyed upon by certain wasps and flying insects.

Spider Mites – Spider Mites are tiny, almost invisible, sucking insects of green, yellow or red colours. They favour plants in warm and dry areas. Yellow dots on leaves and fine webbing are indicators of spider mites presence. They are often found on the underside of leaves and within the interior of the plant.

Controlling Spider Mites – The first line of defense is to increase humidity or moisture. Spray water onto the insides of plants and mist occasionally. You can also release ladybugs or spray with organic horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps.

Ants – Ants can be nuisance but they don’t harm plants directly. They often build their underground nests in dry, sandy soils. Ants farm aphid populations in order to harvest the sticky sap for their own benefit.

Controlling Ants – If ants are a pest in your garden, change sandy soils conditions or lay out ant bait. Pour several jugs of boiling water into accessible nests or sprinkle baking soda around your plants to ensure ants will stay away. You can also use coffee grounds, chili powder, cinnamon, peppermint or black pepper – all deter ants. If the ants in question are large or are finding their way into your home, they may be carpenter ants that require a call to a pest control company.

Scale – Scale are small, oval and flat, immobile insects that suck away plant juices from under the safety of a waxy, usually brown coloured shield or scale. They are also found on houseplants and on tropicals. Scale insects are sometimes hard to identify and often mistaken for natural deformities like galls.

Controlling Scale – When in their protected stage they are generally immobile and can be treated with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. Heavily infected sections can also be pruned off. Ladybugs and certain types of wasps are their natural enemies.

Insecticidal Soap – Insecticidal Soap products utilize the power of potassium salts of fatty acids that weaken the insect’s waxy protective outer shell. Exposed insects dehydrate and die. For use on vegetables, fruits, shrubs, trees, and greenhouse plantings. Controls aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, soft brown scale, psyllids, rose or pear slugs, earwigs, and elm leaf miner. Apply every 7-10 days when insects are present or as needed to prevent further damage.

At Nicholas Alexander Home and Garden Centre, the friendly and knowledgeable staff will be happy to assist you with identifying and addressing your garden’s pest problems. Visit Vernon’s New Garden Center of Choice today!

Fall Planting Bulbs For Spring Blooms is a simple way to rejuvenate your garden. Success is guaranteed, because anyone can do this and look forward to a following spring filled with flowers of stunning colours, shapes and sizes. Daffodil, tulip, hyacinth, crocus and allium are popular choices of bulbs.

How & When to Plant Bulbs

Bulbs can be planted between September and mid-October when there is still plenty of time to develop a good set of roots to withstand an approaching frost. Bulbs need well-drained soil rich with organic matter or compost.

Bulbs need to be planted at least three times as deep as the bulb is tall, with the nose facing up and the roots or root hairs pointing down. Once they are in the ground and watered a bit, they stay dormant for the remainder of the fall and winter.

The first emerging shoots in spring indicate that the roots are growing and are ready for nutrients. Not all bulbs should be planted in the fall. The rule of thumb is: Bulbs for spring – plant in fall. Bulbs for summer – plant in spring.

Popular Choices Of Bulbs For Spring Blooms

▲ Double Daffodil (Narcissus Tahiti)

Daffodil, a member of the amaryllis family also commonly known as Narcissus. This plant has a conspicuous six petal flower with a trumpet-shaped corona. Garden varieties generally occur in colours of white, yellow, orange or pink. The genus is generally considered to have about ten sections with approximately 50 species.

▲ Parrot Tulip (Tulipa gesneriana var. dracontia)

Tulip, a genus of spring-blooming perennial herbaceous bulbiferous geophytes. Generally bereft of scent, they are the coolest of floral characters. The flowers are usually large, showy and brightly coloured, generally red, pink, yellow, or white. They often have a different coloured blotch at the base of the tepals, internally.

▲ Hyacinths (Hyacinthus)

Hyacinth produces barrel-shaped flower heads consisting of dozens of florets with richly coloured flowers and an incredible fragrance that can perfume an entire garden. Hyacinths bloom at the same time as daffodils and early tulips, and come in a rainbow of colours including white, cream, pink; Rose, apricot, lavender, cobalt; Blue, deep purple and wine red.

▲ Crocus chrysanthus “Snow Bunting”

Crocus is a member of the iris family with about 80 species and many cultivates, originally native to Southern Europe and Asia. They are one of the first flowers to bloom each spring often when there’s still snow on the ground. Crocus flowers come in Easter egg colours of purple, yellow, lavender, cream and white. Over time, these carefree bulbs will naturalize and multiply to produce more flowers every year.

▲ Drumstick allium (Allium sphaerocephalon)

Allium is a member of the onion family. They are a garden’s superstar with their large globes made up of hundreds of tiny florets. Colours typically range from shades of pink or purple, but also available in creamy white and yellow. Allium’s odor and taste make them an ideal deterrent for creatures like rabbits, deer, and other browsing animals. Easy to grow and care for, allium is a great choice for every gardener.

At Nicholas Alexander Home and Garden, we offer high-quality plants at unbeatable pricing. Whether you are creating expressive beds, magnificent bouquets, or everything in between, you can be confident that our Bulbs For Spring Blooms are remarkable performers.

How To Plant Garlic In The Fall and use it in your home cooking to flavour up your favourite dishes. Besides the distinctive taste, adding garlic to your meals helps to improve your health at the same time. The antioxidants present in garlic serve many functions in the body, such as protecting your cells from damage, preventing Alzheimer’s disease, rheumatic arthritis, and other chronic diseases.

Types Of Garlic – There are two categories of garlic you can choose from for your garden: softneck and hardneck. Softneck garlic produces more cloves, but they are smaller in size than its counterpart. Hardneck varieties are larger, stronger in flavour and produce a scape (a flowering stalk). It is important to harvest the scapes in early summer, to direct energy into further growing the garlic bulb. Softneck garlic does not grow scapes. Softneck varieties grow best in areas with milder winters, while hardneck types performs better in harsher winter conditions.

How To Plant Garlic In The Fall is rewarding and easy! With minimal effort, you can grow a bounty of tasty garlic that can be used for months. Homegrown garlic is a perfect addition to your favourite recipes. Garlic comes in a wide variety of sizes and flavours. Types of garlic range from ‘Regular White’ to the purple-striped spicy ‘Russian Red’. Looking for something milder? Try the large mild-flavoured ‘Elephant’ variety or ‘Chesnok Red’, a full flavoured garlic with a mellow aftertaste..

1. When To Plant Garlic – Plant your garlic in mid-September to October, at least 4 weeks before the ground freezes. Many varieties can be planted in early spring; however, best results are gained when planted in fall. Garlic is grown by planting its seeds, called cloves. Leave the garlic bulbs whole with the papery covering intact until just before planting. This protects the cloves, keeping them in prime condition.

2. How To Plant – Garlic performs best in well-draining sandy loam soils rich with organic matter. Avoid soggy soils as garlic tends to rot in overly wet conditions. Amend the soil with composted manure before planting. Plant in an area where your garlic will have enough room to produce good roots. Break each clove cleanly away from the bulb. Cloves should be firm and plump. Discard any that show signs of damage, mold or disease. For best success, only use the largest cloves. Plant them root side down, 3” deep and 6” apart. From spring to early summer when garlic sprouts push through the soil, watering is needed on a regular basis.

3. When To Harvest – Once the leaves have turned brown, the garlic is now mature and ready to harvest. Carefully dig the bulbs from the ground and gently brush off the soil from around the roots. Do not wash your bulbs in water. Dry and cure your bulbs out of direct sunlight. With the stalks and leaves still attached, tie them together or store on drying racks for two weeks in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated location.

13 Great Garlic Varieties Available At Nicholas Alexander

Regular (Softneck) ◦ Type: Standard ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 9-24 ◦ Clove Size: Small, Medium ◦ Flavour: Mild to Medium ◦ Comments: Easy to grow, productive and adaptable to varying climates and soils. Great for braiding.

Music (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Porcelain ◦ Harvest: Mid-Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 4-7 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong ◦ Comments: Cold hardy, very hot when eaten raw. Great for roasting.

Chesnok (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 8-10 ◦ Clove Size: Medium ◦ Flavour: Sweet, Mellow ◦ Comments: Full garlic flavour with a mellow aftertaste. Award winning.

Bogatyr (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 5-7 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong, Fiery ◦ Comments: Strong, long-lasting heat. One of the hottest Hardneck varieties.

German Red (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Rocambole ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Winter ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 5-7 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong ◦ Comments: Great full-bodied and long lasting flavour. Stores very well.

Duganski (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Mid-Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 7-10 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong, Fiery ◦ Comments: Fiery flavour that mellows out to a rich garlic aftertaste.

Legacy (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Rocambole ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Winter ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 7-12 ◦ Clove Size: Medium ◦ Flavour: Medium, Strong ◦ Comments: Great flavour. Easy to peel. Cold hardy.

Mexican Purple (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Late Winter / Early Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 8-16 ◦ Clove Size: Small, Medium ◦ Flavour: Rich, Medium ◦ Comments: Milder flavour when baked. Colourful.

Russian Red (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Early / Mid-Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Winter ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 6-8 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong ◦ Comments: Cold hardy. Grows great in northern locations.

Elephant Garlic ◦ Type: Bulbing Leek ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: One Year ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 4-6 ◦ Clove Size: Very Large, Enormous ◦ Flavour: Mild, Sweet ◦ Comments: Closely related to the leek. Cold hardy. Plant 4-6 inches deep.

Metechi (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 5-7 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong ◦ Comments: Cold hardy, vigorous grower and long lasting in storage.

Siberian (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Purple Stripe ◦ Harvest: Late Summer ◦ Storing: Into Spring ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 5-9 ◦ Clove Size: Large ◦ Flavour: Strong, Hot Spicy ◦ Comments: Mild flavour when stored. Great for roasting and cooking.

Spanish Roja (Hardneck) ◦ Type: Rocambole ◦ Harvest: Mid-Summer ◦ Storing: Mid-Winter ◦ Yield Per Bulb: 8-9 ◦ Clove Size: Medium ◦ Flavour: Rich, Spicy ◦ Rich complex flavour, long-lasting taste. Excellent for growing in cold climates.

To successfully plant shrubs and trees during the hot summer months, the correct method needs to be applied. You only need a shovel, bone meal, mulch and water.

First of all select a good site to plant your shrub or tree. Dig a hole with sloped sides about 3x the diameter of the plant pot. This encourages root growth up and outwards towards higher oxygen levels. In clay soils, roughen up the sides of the hole. Roots cannot penetrate a ‘glazed’ side caused by a shovel. Roughen up the sides will allow roots to push through once they make it there.

Fill the hole with water and let it drain before planting. Before anything else, check the plant pot to see if any roots are visibly sticking out from the bottom drain holes. Take the plant out of its container and inspect the root ball. If roots have formed into a dense, tangled mass you need to make vertical cuts down the sides of the root ball.

Put the plant into the hole after the initial water application has drained.

Backfill halfway with native soil mixed with a handful of bone meal and up to 25% soil amendment (compost, manure, etc.) and water.

Repeat backfill and watering for a second half gradually tapering the soil from from the top of the root ball to ground level.

Mulching cannot be overstated. Mulch keeps roots cooler during summer and insulates them during winter. It reduces the loss of moisture during the heat of the day and it will eventually break down providing the plant with beneficial nutrients. DO NOT, however, mulch around the trunk of plants. This can cause rotting and diseases. It is best to mulch the entire planting area starting 3-4 inches away from the trunk. The use of Transplanter 5-15-5 after planting helps minimize post-planting stress.

When planting balled and burlapped plants, be sure to remove all twine / wire and peel back the first 1/3 of burlap from the top. The rest can be left on as it will decompose.Lastly, deep waterings are far more beneficial and efficient as opposed to a quick spray on the surface.